Sear's Hobby Page

It has been a long time since I posted a review so pardon me if some information may be left out. After more than two years of playing CQB with a G3 AEG, I decided it was time to get into the gas blowback game and get me pistol. My only problem was that prices of anything related to the hobby have skyrocketed making a purchase of a brand new pistol impractical.

After months of searching, a fellow player offered this USP Tactical for a very good price. And so without further ado, here goes:

I will not bore you with the pistol's history or where it came from as most of you know it already. The basis of this review is to present a pistol that has seen action and to give others an idea of what a pistol of undetermined age would look like inside and out.




As this is a KSC system 7 model, I had reasonably high expectations as to its appearance. Starting with the serial number stamped under the pistol just in front of the trigger guard and how it matches with the one stamped on the breech of the outer barrel.



I am not sure if the  real deal has a warning stamped on the underside of the trigger guard and for me this is not a problem. Since this is a second-hand unit, I am happy to say both the trigger and the mag release are working fine.



I do know that real HK pistols come with engraved markings so the ones on this unit is wearing off its appeal the more I look at it. I will consider engraving it after I get a spare slide to practice on. Also notice that the grooves to mount tactical lights extend all the way up to the muzzle end. This was obviously done by the previous owner to maybe make the mounting of tactical lights or lasers easier. One may recall when HK first produced this gun, the rails are designed to accept accessories made by the manufacturer so you need to use an adapter when using lights with 20mm rail attachments.



This gun is remarkably detailed. The tactical version uses different sights that are mounted higher and adjustable since this version can use suppressors.



With the slide taken out, you can see the trigger system. This gun has ambidextrous safety levers though the slide release is only on the left side. If it looks too greasy to you, you're right. I had a friend spray some silicone oil the day I bought it so I could try it out in a couple of games.




Two more shots of the trigger mechanism. With my inexperienced eye, I could see no visible signs of wear that might affect the guns performance. The inner face of the hammer does show a distinct mark telling one what part hits the striker on the slide.



This is where one slides in the mag release when reassembling the pistol. Bits and pieces of metal tell me I need to do some cleaning before using it again.


Moving on to the slide, it appears the wear on the metal parts give me the impression that it wasn't used that much by the previous owner, something I verified when I was told it was used only for plinking and not in games. I tried to get a shot of the flute valve and spring but lighting was poor and I was using a point-and-shoot camera.



Just like the real thing, the KSC uses dual recoil springs. They work fine and the slide returns in a snappy and quick manner. I was told that the non-system 7 USP was slower when it comes to the slide return.



The heart of any GBB is its magazine. Except for some minor issues with loading and the occasional BB jam, I encountered no leaks whatsoever.






Close up shoots of the valve, and the gas outlet (it's that rectangular thing just before the feed lips for the BBs) show no signs of damage.

I have used this pistol twice. In both instances I had no problems loading gas into the magazine. There were no leaks and cool-down was not a problem for me. As a back up to my G3, entering tight places are understandably easier. Accuracy-wise, well it's meant to be used in close quarters so one might think of skill and practice if you can't hit a target less than 10 feet away. I will be posting more information as time allows and I get more seat-time with my new toy.

Although I am not based in the US, similar actions have taken place regarding the regulation of this hobby. Orange tips, permit to carry, and more are some of the things that have been implemented. Suffice to say, it's best to play safe and be responsible.

This is for those into the Vietnam-era impression. Now that it comes with an open bolt, I feel that WE is making their gbbs more realistic.

This of course makes it more difficult to choose which model one may want to buy.

It's been some time since I posted anything here so let's resume with a video from the guys at RA-Tech:

You'll notice some spaces between the PVC and the edge of the helmet. I'll be ading some epoxy or similar filler to close them up. The sides will be made to allow the use of a headset should I choose to purchase one or build out of scratch.

AATV's report on the SRC G36k. I wonder when this will be reaching local shops.

I stumbled on to this video showing how to make your own custom mask. As I am in the process of modifying a stock scooter helmet for playing, I thought that this video would be a good source of information should I try my hand at making face masks in the future.

Though I have yet to purchase my own GBBR, I still like to keep in touch with the latest offers. The only "problem" I see that they all seem to be M4s and their respective variants. Here now is Well's version of a CQBR:

The image above shows how pin 87 is wired to the trigger assembly. With the help of sir Alencore, I learned that this will not work. When I tested this, the arm connected to pin 30 would swing to pin 87 after the battery is plugged but nothing more. This means that the relay is working, but no electrical current will flow to the motor when the trigger is pulled.


In this diagram, I drew the original layout I used for reference. The second diagram shows the negative wires connected to the trigger assembly this time. At first I thought this was not possible. Checking some automotive websites that have posts and threads on Bosch relays say otherwise and the result is a very clean and organized wiring set up. I haven't tried this yet and will post updates when time allows.

Disclaimer: I am not an experienced nor licensed electrician. For those interested in doing this mod, please do your research. The information I have posted documents what I have done and by no means THE method that should be followed.

I've been reading about the use of relays on AEG ever since the use of lipoly batteries became widespread. The main reason for using it is to prevent the trigger contacts from burning up without spending a lot of money on buying MOSFETs.

When I bought my first lipoly, the idea of using a relay also came to mind. Reading threads in FAS and websites on the design and function of the Bosch relay gave me the information needed for this mod. The pictures below illustrate the different diagrams used to wire the relay in the gun.

Prior to the installation, I needed to check space inside the stock to make sure that there would be sufficient room for the relay and the battery. G3 stocks are smaller than M16s, and there is just enough space for a standard 8.4v large-type battery. I did not want to do any sort of modification on the battery compartment that might weaken the structure.

The guys at RA TECH are at it again, this time, some useful information about the internals of the G36c and their NPAs kit.

With the trigger assembly removed, I got to see how well the copper plate that engages the tappet is holding up after non-use. they usually change in color due to exposure but this one seems fine. I took a closer shot of the spur gear bushing. It's full of old grease and the black color is due to shavings or bits of metal most likely from the shell. You can also see a faint circle that marks the diameter of the spur gear.



The selector looks surprisingly good. In my first gearbox, a part of the lever broke after a month  resulting in the loss of the semi-automatic function when pulling the trigger. In terms of the metal this part is made of, it looks just the like the shell although it could be of a slightly higher grade.



Anti- reverse latch. This is about the most hated part among airsofters who work on their own guns. When I was a the bottom part of the learning curve, I could easily spend two hours trying to close the gearbox shell while keeping this part from springing out. Eventually I learned from a fellow player a neat trick: all purpose grease. Dip one end of the axle into a container of automotive grease until the axle is generously covered. When you install it in its respective hole, the grease will act like glue to keep it from popping. At first, I was worried that excessive grease will gum up this part but after countless games and about a six-month hiatus, it still functions properly.

Below is the "trigger" assembly of the gearbox. A fairly simple design, when the two copper contacts meet, an electrical charge can pass from the battery through this mechanism and onto the motor. The copper points are slightly corroded and will need to be brushed or even replaced. The wires are still intact so no need to re-solder or replace them.





And so this ends my posts on the gearbox. I am in the process of searching for an upper and lower m4 receiver with a price tag that won't break the bank. I would prefer a metal version though I can resort to a plastic one if funds or supply is short. From there, I need to work on the front end, get a new hop-up and inner barrel. Cosmetics will come last as I am more concerned with the overall performance first. One does not need floating rails and fancy attachments to make a aeg fire after all.

RA Tech has been in the thick of the GBBR scene and since I have been contemplating on getting one myself, I wanted to see what other type of adjustable NPA system they had. This one is for the KSC/KWA MP7.

I have been following Jarek4's reviews on a variety of different AEGs and GBBs. This time I saw a review of the WE G36C GBBR. When I first learned of this guns existence, I thought WE came up with the carbine version. So for now, I'll wait and cross my fingers for the time WE comes up with the "K" version.

A slow motion vid of the G36C:

This time the reveiwer checks the accuracy of the G36C: