RA TECH WE G39C PISTON COMPARE WITH WE PDW AND WE M14& RA Custom Review
The guys at RA TECH are at it again, this time, some useful information about the internals of the G36c and their NPAs kit.
Building from Old and Spare Parts 3
I finally got to finish photographing the internals of my old gearbox. As I mentioned in my previous post, I note some imperfections on the right side of the gearbox shell. When I sanded off the paint I thought I was going to see rust or corrosion but instead they turned out to be lumps. This may be a product of the casting and for now I do not see it affecting the strength of the shell itself.
With the trigger assembly removed, I got to see how well the copper plate that engages the tappet is holding up after non-use. they usually change in color due to exposure but this one seems fine. I took a closer shot of the spur gear bushing. It's full of old grease and the black color is due to shavings or bits of metal most likely from the shell. You can also see a faint circle that marks the diameter of the spur gear.
The selector looks surprisingly good. In my first gearbox, a part of the lever broke after a month resulting in the loss of the semi-automatic function when pulling the trigger. In terms of the metal this part is made of, it looks just the like the shell although it could be of a slightly higher grade.
Anti- reverse latch. This is about the most hated part among airsofters who work on their own guns. When I was a the bottom part of the learning curve, I could easily spend two hours trying to close the gearbox shell while keeping this part from springing out. Eventually I learned from a fellow player a neat trick: all purpose grease. Dip one end of the axle into a container of automotive grease until the axle is generously covered. When you install it in its respective hole, the grease will act like glue to keep it from popping. At first, I was worried that excessive grease will gum up this part but after countless games and about a six-month hiatus, it still functions properly.
Below is the "trigger" assembly of the gearbox. A fairly simple design, when the two copper contacts meet, an electrical charge can pass from the battery through this mechanism and onto the motor. The copper points are slightly corroded and will need to be brushed or even replaced. The wires are still intact so no need to re-solder or replace them.
And so this ends my posts on the gearbox. I am in the process of searching for an upper and lower m4 receiver with a price tag that won't break the bank. I would prefer a metal version though I can resort to a plastic one if funds or supply is short. From there, I need to work on the front end, get a new hop-up and inner barrel. Cosmetics will come last as I am more concerned with the overall performance first. One does not need floating rails and fancy attachments to make a aeg fire after all.
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