KSC USP .45 Tactical

Posted on 6:41 AM by Benji | 0 comments

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It has been a long time since I posted a review so pardon me if some information may be left out. After more than two years of playing CQB with a G3 AEG, I decided it was time to get into the gas blowback game and get me pistol. My only problem was that prices of anything related to the hobby have skyrocketed making a purchase of a brand new pistol impractical.

After months of searching, a fellow player offered this USP Tactical for a very good price. And so without further ado, here goes:

I will not bore you with the pistol's history or where it came from as most of you know it already. The basis of this review is to present a pistol that has seen action and to give others an idea of what a pistol of undetermined age would look like inside and out.

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As this is a KSC system 7 model, I had reasonably high expectations as to its appearance. Starting with the serial number stamped under the pistol just in front of the trigger guard and how it matches with the one stamped on the breech of the outer barrel.

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I am not sure if the  real deal has a warning stamped on the underside of the trigger guard and for me this is not a problem. Since this is a second-hand unit, I am happy to say both the trigger and the mag release are working fine.

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I do know that real HK pistols come with engraved markings so the ones on this unit is wearing off its appeal the more I look at it. I will consider engraving it after I get a spare slide to practice on. Also notice that the grooves to mount tactical lights extend all the way up to the muzzle end. This was obviously done by the previous owner to maybe make the mounting of tactical lights or lasers easier. One may recall when HK first produced this gun, the rails are designed to accept accessories made by the manufacturer so you need to use an adapter when using lights with 20mm rail attachments.

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This gun is remarkably detailed. The tactical version uses different sights that are mounted higher and adjustable since this version can use suppressors.

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With the slide taken out, you can see the trigger system. This gun has ambidextrous safety levers though the slide release is only on the left side. If it looks too greasy to you, you're right. I had a friend spray some silicone oil the day I bought it so I could try it out in a couple of games.

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Two more shots of the trigger mechanism. With my inexperienced eye, I could see no visible signs of wear that might affect the guns performance. The inner face of the hammer does show a distinct mark telling one what part hits the striker on the slide.

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This is where one slides in the mag release when reassembling the pistol. Bits and pieces of metal tell me I need to do some cleaning before using it again.

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Moving on to the slide, it appears the wear on the metal parts give me the impression that it wasn't used that much by the previous owner, something I verified when I was told it was used only for plinking and not in games. I tried to get a shot of the flute valve and spring but lighting was poor and I was using a point-and-shoot camera.

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Just like the real thing, the KSC uses dual recoil springs. They work fine and the slide returns in a snappy and quick manner. I was told that the non-system 7 USP was slower when it comes to the slide return.

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The heart of any GBB is its magazine. Except for some minor issues with loading and the occasional BB jam, I encountered no leaks whatsoever.


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Close up shoots of the valve, and the gas outlet (it's that rectangular thing just before the feed lips for the BBs) show no signs of damage.

I have used this pistol twice. In both instances I had no problems loading gas into the magazine. There were no leaks and cool-down was not a problem for me. As a back up to my G3, entering tight places are understandably easier. Accuracy-wise, well it's meant to be used in close quarters so one might think of skill and practice if you can't hit a target less than 10 feet away. I will be posting more information as time allows and I get more seat-time with my new toy.

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NO on SB798- STOP California SB 798!

Posted on 4:42 AM by Benji | 0 comments

Although I am not based in the US, similar actions have taken place regarding the regulation of this hobby. Orange tips, permit to carry, and more are some of the things that have been implemented. Suffice to say, it's best to play safe and be responsible.

Airsoft Evike.com- *NEW* WE M16VN GBB (open bolt) Sneak Preview

Posted on 4:41 AM by Benji | 1 comments

This is for those into the Vietnam-era impression. Now that it comes with an open bolt, I feel that WE is making their gbbs more realistic.

This of course makes it more difficult to choose which model one may want to buy.

RA-TECH WE M16 OPEN BOLT WE L85 STEEL BOLT & recoil buffer illustration.mpg

Posted on 5:53 AM by Benji | 0 comments

It's been some time since I posted anything here so let's resume with a video from the guys at RA-Tech:

Classic Army LWRC M6 Airsoft Gun Review

Posted on 9:43 PM by Benji | 0 comments

Helmet Mod Part 2

Posted on 2:27 AM by Benji | 0 comments

This mod is taking longer than I expected. Aside from the lack of time, testing of the design showed flaws in the adhesive I used. Simply put, throwing the helmet at a wall causes whatever I glued on to the surface to come off like a jigsaw puzzle falling on the floor.

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Above is an what the back of the helmet looked like before I stress tested it. Yes, why use three pieces when one whole piece of PVC would be much better? Essentially I was using scraps from previous projects.

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This is what I just completed today. No I haven't tested it yet on the wall. What I plan to do is to add small screws for strength onces the glue has fully cured.

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You'll notice some spaces between the PVC and the edge of the helmet. I'll be ading some epoxy or similar filler to close them up. The sides will be made to allow the use of a headset should I choose to purchase one or build out of scratch.

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The back end is now one whole piece unlike the first build. I might add another piece over the existing PVC to thicken the back end a little and add more protection.

So this is where I am at so far. One other reason for the delay is a change in the overall look. Before I wanted to replicate an existing design like a Mich 2001. After muh contemplation, I realized that though possible, it would be too complex and the basic shape of the helmet won't allow a one-to-one replica.

AATV @ IWA 2011: SRC G36K GBB and AKS74U GBB

Posted on 9:47 PM by Benji | 0 comments

AATV's report on the SRC G36k. I wonder when this will be reaching local shops.

How to make a custom airsoft mask

Posted on 4:10 AM by Benji | 0 comments

I stumbled on to this video showing how to make your own custom mask. As I am in the process of modifying a stock scooter helmet for playing, I thought that this video would be a good source of information should I try my hand at making face masks in the future.

Well M4 CQB Gas Blowback Rifle Review

Posted on 10:42 PM by Benji | 0 comments

Though I have yet to purchase my own GBBR, I still like to keep in touch with the latest offers. The only "problem" I see that they all seem to be M4s and their respective variants. Here now is Well's version of a CQBR:

Bosch relay wiring update

Posted on 10:00 PM by Benji | 0 comments

After reading more articles and doing some trial and error, I realized my last diagram was sorely wrong. In the interest of keeping the number of wires to the minimum, I ignored some fundamentals when it comes to wiring an electric motor using a battery as the power source.



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The image above shows how pin 87 is wired to the trigger assembly. With the help of sir Alencore, I learned that this will not work. When I tested this, the arm connected to pin 30 would swing to pin 87 after the battery is plugged but nothing more. This means that the relay is working, but no electrical current will flow to the motor when the trigger is pulled.

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In this diagram, I drew the original layout I used for reference. The second diagram shows the negative wires connected to the trigger assembly this time. At first I thought this was not possible. Checking some automotive websites that have posts and threads on Bosch relays say otherwise and the result is a very clean and organized wiring set up. I haven't tried this yet and will post updates when time allows.

Bosch Relay Installation

Posted on 5:24 AM by Benji | 0 comments

Disclaimer: I am not an experienced nor licensed electrician. For those interested in doing this mod, please do your research. The information I have posted documents what I have done and by no means THE method that should be followed.

I've been reading about the use of relays on AEG ever since the use of lipoly batteries became widespread. The main reason for using it is to prevent the trigger contacts from burning up without spending a lot of money on buying MOSFETs.

When I bought my first lipoly, the idea of using a relay also came to mind. Reading threads in FAS and websites on the design and function of the Bosch relay gave me the information needed for this mod. The pictures below illustrate the different diagrams used to wire the relay in the gun.

Prior to the installation, I needed to check space inside the stock to make sure that there would be sufficient room for the relay and the battery. G3 stocks are smaller than M16s, and there is just enough space for a standard 8.4v large-type battery. I did not want to do any sort of modification on the battery compartment that might weaken the structure.

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The picture above is based on illustrations I have seen in FAS. A total of four main wires exit the gearbox front and back. With this set up I needed to use 18 gauge AWG wires to avoid any one of them getting stripped or cut once inside the lower receiver. A week after wiring the relay, I test fired it only to learn that one of the wires coming out from the front lost some of its insulation. The culprit was the tight fit of the gearbox in the lower receiver and how mated to the rest of the gun.  


PhotobucketHere is another diagram that I have already tried. Notice that the negative wires are the ones connected to the trigger assembly. The positive (red) wires are limited to pin 87 connecting to positive point of the motor. Pins 30 and 85 are connected and then another wire from pin 85 connects to the positive contact of the battery plug. The result, nothing happened. When I pulled out the cover of the relay, I noted that the when the battery is plugged, the way the wires are connected created what is called an "open" switch. This means the no power is flowing through the coil of the relay.




PhotobucketAfter the last attempt, I muddled over the problem and decided to use positive contacts on the trigger assembly. In this diagram, the wire connected to pin 87 runs through the trigger contacts and then to the positive point of the motor. This means one needs to pull the trigger to make current flow. I will be trying this set up on the weekend and post updates.

For those who read this, please post comments and suggestions. I'd like to get more information on how I can wire my G3 and I'd like to get feedback on the last diagram I made.  For those interested, here are the links to FAS and on the Bosch relay:

Basic Car Audio Electronics:

Relay- alternative to mosfet by sir Alencore of FAS

Poorman's mosfet using Bosch relay by sir Trigun of FAS


Helmet Mod

Posted on 9:56 PM by Benji | 0 comments

After returning to playing CQB, I realized it was time to get better protection for my head. In the field or the jungle, one gets protection from the foliage and the distance between players. In enclosed spaces like rooms or narrow corridors, even 350 fps feels like 450 due to the close proximity between shooters. Add high ROF, you come home with more than a welt or two.

So I decided to go and get one. The only problem was that I couldn't find any my size as most helmets were too big for me. So I went to get a cheap helmet (the one in the picture is said to be a scooter helmet but after looking at the construction, I would not even wear it for biking) that I could modify. Here's how it looks:

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First thing I did was to sand off the shiny surface to make the paint stick more efficiently. The decals had to be removed with a dremel and the I cut off the visor.

 
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After the initial sanding and cutting, I tested it with a pair of goggles to see how it would fit. So far it looks good though I will have to add some material on the front of the helmet to cover the lining.

 
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From the side, there is a possibility that a pellet could strike between the goggles and the rim on the front of the helmet. I'll be adding material (from pvc) to cover that.

 
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The back seems a little exposed so I will lengthen it a little but no too much that I won't be able to look up without the rim hitting the back of my neck. I also need to add a strap of some sorts to keep the band of the goggles from moving up and down.

 
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So that's all for now. I'll be continuing next weekend and post updates and pictures as I work on this project. 

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