Jing Gong G3 RAS Long Term Review Part I

Posted on 6:30 AM by Benji | 0 comments

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The Heckler and Koch G3 assault rifle has been one of my favorites since I first laid eyes on this beauty several years ago. When I began playing airsoft, I started like most players using an M4. After about a year, I got tired of using it as it seemed every game field was awashed with this American classic.

During one of my visits to my favorite airsoft shops,  I spied on a large box on the floor while they were stocking supplies. When I asked what it was, I was told that it was a long rifle. After using an M733, I was a bit intimidated by the gun's length. But what caught my attention was its very straightforward design, something you'd expect from a German design.

I eventually bought one and spent the first two weeks getting accustomed to its size and weight. Despite its length it's quite light, and since it's an RAS, it also came with a removable foregrip. Here's what to expect when you get one:

-the gun
-vertical grip
-8.4v 1500mah nicad battery and charger
-one very long barrel cleaner
-bbs which I don't recommend you use


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In terms of finish the rails were crisp and the numbers were easy to read. The edges of the rails weren't too sharp as I thought they would be. It's heavy and you feel the weight during prolonged scenarios.

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The main body is made of plastic, but is quite sturdy. Except for the indicators on the selector lever, there are no markings whatsoever. The surface of the plastic is smooth making it shiny when hit by the light. That was something I immediately fixed by spraying the upper receiver and buttstock with Bosny flat black. If you look closely at the image above, the lower receiver is glossier than the upper.

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Metal parts include the RAS, selector lever, trigger, cocking handle, ejector port, front and rear sight, and the outer barrel. When I first took out the RAS, I also noticed that the outer barrel was made of plastic so only the barrel after the front sight is metal.

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Unlike most M4s, there is a groove in which you can lock up the handle at the rear just like the real deal. This makes adjusting the hop up very easy.

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Looking through the open sights is easy, especially with the ghost ring in the front post, and also helps with one's muzzle awareness.

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The hop up is composed of a one-piece plastic unit, with a drum-type wheel, easily visible and adjustable when you lock the cocking handle. On my gun, it took only a few clicks to get the hop at the right position.

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As stated earlier, looking through the front sight is not a problem. With the rear sight, that's another thing. Depending on what kind of mask or goggles you wear, looking through the rear post can be a little difficult. I got myself a red dot to remedy this.

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Although the battery compartment is in the rear, there is only enough room for an 8.4 large type nicad battery. For those who want to use a 9.6v nicad, you will have to dremmel some material off the inside to make the needed room.

At this point, I did not open the gun to look at the gearbox internals. My plan was to use it for at least two to three games to get familiar with how it handles. Below is some more information on its performance:

FPS- 380 ootb
ROF- estimated at 850 using its stock battery
Maximum effective range- 100-120 feet

One may ask why a gun with a 506mm inner barrel would shoot at a shorter range compared to a 363mm-barreled M4. Upon inspection, I noted that the inner barrel fits quite tightly in the one-piece hop up. At that time I didn't not think it would affect the overall performance. When I changed the hop up rubber to a Systema Hop, the tight space inside the chamber made it a little difficult as it was slightly deforming the lip of the hop up where the bb enters. However, there was also an increase in range though I can't say how much further but I could easily outrange an opponent using an M4. I'll add more info on this when I continue with the review on Part II.

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